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Kadai Paneer Recipe

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The coarse, toasted coriander and chili you crush yourself is the whole dish, and it takes five minutes and a mortar.

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Kadai paneer in a black iron kadai, white paneer cubes and charred green and red pepper squares coated in a thick brick-red masala, topped with cilantro and ginger strips, naan behind
Suitable for Vegetarian and Gluten-Free diets
Vegetarian: yes
Vegan: no
Gluten Free: yes
Dairy Free: no
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The Paneer Dish I Actually Cook On A Weeknight

Shahi paneer and tikka masala are the paneer dishes I make for guests, because they take a blender, a few pans and most of an evening. Kadai paneer is the one I make for myself on a Tuesday. One pan, half an hour, and the only special equipment is a mortar.

For years I made it badly, because I made it with ground coriander from a jar. It tasted like every other tomato and paneer curry. The first time I toasted whole coriander seed and dried chilies in the dry pan and crushed them roughly, the kitchen smelled like the restaurant version within a minute, and the dish finally had the coarse, peppery, almost citrus bite I had been missing.

The other change was taking the peppers out. Seared on their own over high heat and stirred back in at the end, they stay bright and crunchy instead of collapsing into the sauce.

The story

Kadai Paneer Is Named After The Pan

A kadai, or karahi in Punjabi and Urdu, is the deep, round-bottomed, two-handled pan of north Indian and Pakistani kitchens, usually heavy iron. It does almost everything: it deep-fries pakoras and puris, roasts spices, stirs halwa and reduces curries. Dishes cooked and served in it take its name, so karahi gosht, kadai chicken and kadai paneer are all the same idea with a different main ingredient.

That idea comes from the dhabas, the roadside restaurants of Punjab and the northwest, where karahi dishes are cooked to order over a fierce flame. Tomatoes, ginger, green chilies and the main ingredient go into the hot pan and are reduced hard until the oil separates and the masala clings, then the pan goes to the table. The result is drier and more concentrated than a slow-simmered curry, and that is the texture to aim for.

What separates the kadai dishes on a restaurant menu from the other tomato-based ones is the kadai masala: whole coriander seed and dried red chilies, roasted and crushed coarsely, often with a little cumin and black pepper. Paneer tikka masala is smooth and creamy, paneer butter masala sweet and rich, shahi paneer white and nutty. Kadai paneer is the coarse, peppery one, with chunks of seared capsicum and onion through it.

Paneer suits the high heat because it does not melt. It is a fresh cheese set with lemon juice, vinegar or citric acid rather than rennet, which also makes it one of the few cheeses that is vegetarian by default.

What to buy

Ingredient Notes

  • Paneer

    Use full-fat block paneer and cut it into 1-inch cubes, the same size as the peppers, so every forkful has both. Many recipes fry the cubes first, which gives them a golden skin but makes them chewy within minutes of hitting the sauce. Here they soak in hot salted water instead and go in near the end, which keeps them soft and seasoned through. If you want color, sear them for a minute in the hot pan after the peppers.

  • Coriander seeds

    Whole seeds are not optional. Coriander changes completely when it is toasted, from soapy and green to warm, nutty and faintly orange-peel, and that toasted note is the flavor of the dish. Ground coriander from a jar cannot be toasted without burning and has usually lost most of its aroma. Look for the small, pale greenish-tan Indian seeds rather than the larger, rounder Moroccan ones, which are milder.

  • Dried red chilies

    Kashmiri chilies give a deep red color with mild heat and are the usual choice. Four of them, seeds shaken out, keep the dish warm rather than hot. Use byadgi chilies the same way, or two small hot dried chilies such as chile de árbol plus a teaspoon of paprika for color. Break off the stems and tip out the loose seeds before toasting, since the seeds carry most of the heat.

  • Bell peppers

    Green capsicum is the classic kadai pepper, and its slight bitterness balances the sweet tomato. A green and a red together look better and taste a little sweeter. Cut them into 1-inch squares rather than strips. Strips are jalfrezi; squares stay crisp in the center while their edges char, and they sit evenly with the paneer cubes and the onion petals.

  • Tomatoes

    Ripe tomatoes, pureed, give the masala body without making it watery. Three medium tomatoes, about a pound, is the right amount for four servings. Out of season, one cup of canned crushed tomatoes is better than pale supermarket ones. The tomato is cooked until the oil separates from it at the edges of the pan, which is the sign that its raw, sharp edge has cooked out.

  • Kasuri methi

    Dried fenugreek leaves, sold in bags in Indian groceries, add the faintly bitter, maple-like note that makes a home curry taste like restaurant food. Crush them between your palms as you add them, which releases the aroma, and add them at the end. A teaspoon is enough. If you cannot find them, leave them out rather than substituting fenugreek seeds, which taste much harsher.

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When it goes wrong

Troubleshooting

  • It tastes like any other paneer curry

    The kadai masala is missing or was made from ground spices. Toast whole coriander seed and dried chilies until fragrant, crush them coarsely and add them in two stages: most of it with the tomatoes, where it melts into the masala, and the rest at the end, where it stays as distinct crunchy flecks. That second addition is what makes the dish recognizable.

  • The peppers went soft and turned army green

    They cooked in the sauce too long. Peppers simmered in tomato for ten minutes lose their crunch and their color. Sear them separately over high heat for two or three minutes, until the edges char but the centers are still crisp, set them aside, and return them only for the last two minutes. They should still snap when you bite them.

  • The masala tastes raw and sharp

    The tomatoes were not cooked long enough. Pureed tomato needs eight to ten minutes over medium-high heat, stirred often, until it darkens to a deep brick red, thickens into a paste and the oil pools at its edges. Indian cooks call this bhuna. If the paneer goes in before that point, the sauce will taste of raw tomato however long you simmer it afterward.

  • It’s soupy, more like a gravy

    Kadai paneer is a semi-dry dish: the masala should coat the paneer and peppers rather than pool around them. Too much water, or tomatoes that were not reduced, will make it runny. Turn the heat up, leave the pan uncovered and toss for a minute or two until it clings. Only a splash of water goes in with the paneer, just enough to loosen the paste.

  • The spices taste bitter and burnt

    They were toasted over too much heat. Coriander seed scorches in seconds once it starts to color, and chilies burn even faster. Toast over medium-low heat, shaking the pan, and stop when the coriander is one shade darker and smells warm and nutty, about two or three minutes. Tip them straight out onto a plate, because the hot pan keeps cooking them. Burnt seeds cannot be rescued, so start again.

  • It’s much hotter than I expected

    The chili seeds went into the masala, or the chilies were a hot variety. For mild heat use Kashmiri chilies with their seeds shaken out, and leave the fresh green chili whole, slit but not chopped, so it can be lifted out. To cool down a pan that is already too hot, stir in two tablespoons of cream or a spoonful of yogurt off the heat.

Before you serve

Serving & Storage

Kadai paneer is a bread dish first. Serve it with butter naan, tandoori roti or flaky lachha paratha, which scoop up the thick masala better than rice does. If you want rice too, jeera rice or plain basmati works. In a Punjabi meal it sits beside a dal, usually dal makhani or a simple dal tadka, with sliced raw onion, a wedge of lemon and a bowl of plain yogurt or raita.

For a Diwali table it pairs well with a creamy dish like shahi paneer, because the two are so different in texture and heat, and with kheer or gulab jamun to finish. Scatter fresh cilantro and thin strips of ginger over it just before it goes to the table, and serve it straight from the pan if your pan is presentable.

Making it ahead

The masala base, everything up to the point where the tomatoes are cooked down, keeps for three days in the fridge or three months in the freezer. Reheat it in the pan until it sizzles, then sear the peppers, add the paneer and finish as written, which takes ten minutes. The kadai masala itself keeps in a sealed jar for about two weeks, though it is at its best on the day you crush it.

Storing leftovers

Leftovers keep covered in the fridge for three days. The peppers soften overnight and the paneer firms up, so reheat it in a pan over medium heat with a splash of water, stirring gently, rather than in the microwave, which makes paneer rubbery. Do not freeze the finished dish: the peppers turn watery and the paneer goes spongy as it thaws. Freeze the masala base instead.

Still wondering

Frequently Asked Questions

  • What is the difference between kadai paneer and paneer jalfrezi?

    Both are paneer with peppers and onion, but they are built differently. Jalfrezi is a quick stir-fry of thin strips in a light, tangy coating, often sharpened with vinegar. Kadai paneer uses cubes and squares in a thick, reduced tomato masala flavored with toasted, crushed coriander and chili.

  • Can I use store-bought kadai masala?

    Yes. Use 1 1/2 tablespoons of the powder, toast it in the oil for 20 seconds before the tomatoes go in, and keep back a teaspoon to stir in at the end. The flavor will be flatter and the texture finer, because commercial blends are ground to a powder, but it is far better than leaving it out.

  • Do I need a kadai to make it?

    No. A wok is the closest substitute and is what this recipe is written for. A wide, heavy stainless steel or cast iron skillet also works. Avoid non-stick, which cannot take the high heat the peppers need to char.

More Paneer And Sweets For A Diwali Table

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